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2. Draining and ventilating hulls.
Usually hulls are not sealed from the inside.
In addition it prevents shatter cracks.

3. Hose down after each saltwater sailing day. Remove sand and salt remainders thoroughly .
In addition rinse regulary mainsail and foresail sheet.

4. Hatchway and spring plug might become leaky with the time.
Use vaseline for the covers.
The fat closes the gaps and the covers can be opened more easily.
Hatchways can become secured with a line from the inside.

6. Controling regularly the screws at front - and after beam, as well as at the cross girder
(with some boats) .

7. Check shrouds and shackle each sailing day and when damages exchange .
Control of the shroud tension.
Tapen snap rings.
It is advisable to replace shackles after some time without visible damage.

8. Tape the sail slats within the range of the shrouds (particularly with not encased shrouds).
The sharp edges of the slats scrub the sails easily through.
Ease sail slats with longer storage.
Control sail slat tension regularly

9. Retighten the trampolin regularly .
A well strained trampolin can catch the load with every change of side and gives the entire catamaran firmness.

10. The rudder should be regularly soaked and greased.

Before buying a second hand boat, you should check a few things :

Items to check on a prospective boat:

"Right and left rear corner castings at trampoline supports often get cracks in them

Check to see that the mast is straight by sighting up it when the rig is stood. Look up the sail track.

Rudder cams should be in good working condition. You can test this by locking the rudder in the down position and tapping at the leading edge of the rudder with your foot. The rudder should not release until you give it a solid shot. The rudder should be easily brought in to the up position with the steering mechanism.

The spring that holds the rudder cam in place when locked down should be in good condition.

Push on the deck of the hull just in front of the front crossbar. If there is flex in the deck, this is probably not a good boat for you. This area is critical to the boats structure

Look underneath the hulls to see if there is a lot of beach wear. If you can see the hull beneath the gelcoat paint, that is okay. If you can see fiberglass coming through the brown hull resin, the boat will need a $300 bottom job soon.

Check at the back of the boat where the rudders connect to the hull. The metal fastener housings are called gudgeons. If there is cracking around the gudgeons, the boat has probably had some problems when beaching. This can be a severe problem so look carefully at the back of the boat.

Look for worn wires on the mast. Look at the shrouds (side wires) forestay (front wire) and the trapeze wires for broken strands. Also check the bridle wires (very front, attach to bow) for broken strands. Ask the owner when he replaced the wires last. Most manuals suggest a five year maximum life for wires even if they have not been used.

Look for broken strands in the halyards (lines that pull up the sails).

Look at the sails for broken battens (solid pieces of fiberglass) in sail.

Look for tears in the sails.

Check the stiffness of the sail material. The newer the material, the stiffer the sail.

Trampoline condition. Tramp should have no tears or holes.

Look for areas of discoloration in the hulls. This may indicate a repair of some type.

Ask if the boat leaks. If so, how much in two hours. A few cups of water are okay, but half a gallon or more is unacceptable.

Look all around the hulls for gelcoat (paint) cracks. Sometimes this is okay, but if the area around the cracks is soft, walk away and look for another boat! Press on the decks with the palm of your hand and all of your weight.

Ask the owner why he is selling the boat. How long has it been on the market? Are you the original owner? When was the last time you were sailing on this boat.

Ask the owner what model year the boat is. Then go to the back of the boat on the right hull and look on the back of the boat. There will be a hull number that will end something like "M79L". This would indicate that the boat is a 1979 model. Make sure that the title that the owner gives to you has a VIN # (hull #) that matches the number on the boat. Make sure that the person you are speaking to owns the boat. They must own it outright with no "legal owner" listed. If there is a legal owner listed, you must make sure that the lien on the boat has been satisfied. Simply call the lienholder. Make sure that the person selling the boat is the singular owner and that there are not two names listed on the title. If there are two names, then the other person must also sign off and date their interest in the item. To be really sure that this boat is as it appears, contact you local DMV and County Accessors office. Have the Hull numbers for the boat and the VIN # for the trailer ready along with the owners full name and address.

Taxes and registration. Ask the owner if he has paid his county tax on the boat for the current year. Call DMV and make sure there are no outstanding parking tickets or other citations on the trailer. If the boat and trailer are out of date on registration, it could be very expensive to get the boat and trailer back to current. The certificate of non-operation slips are much more limiting than they used to be so call DMV to confirm you will not have to pay the additional registration fees and back penalties due."
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